History of Gojo Rakuen
From the tranquil, communal feel of the neighborhood, with children hopping about the sakura-lined Takase river and artisans plying their trade in ateliers old and new, one would never have guessed the colorful history and checkered past of this area once known as “Gojo Rakuen”, or 5th Avenue Paradise (五條楽園). Stretching from the banks of Takase to Kamo River on the east, occupying a narrow strip of land like an upside down boot between 5th and 7th Avenues, this is one of Kyoto’s best kept secrets in a city center location.
Retro atmosphere in machiyas given new lease of life.
Gojo Rakuen bounded by 2 rivers and occupying a narrow strip of land like an upside down boot.
Source: Mapping for the Future of Gojo Rakuen by Klaiman, Besch, Lepage, and Duffy of Worcester Polytechnic Institute.
Takase River in sakura bloom time
Traditional bathhouse revitalized
Kyoto Station, Kiyomizu Temple and the Shijo (4th Avenue) shops and crowds are all within walking distance, yet Gojo remains an oasis of peace, with old-timers leisurely mingling with sojourners in retro cafes, bars and craft workshops. Some come to admire the vestiges of a bygone era; some are simply attracted to the family-friendly atmosphere and the proximity of two beautiful rivers. Perhaps not many are aware of the rich and at times turbulent history that gave the area its intriguing romantic name.
The iconic Kyoto Tower (next to Kyoto Station) within 10 minutes walk.
Just what kind of "paradise" is Gojo Rakuen?
While "paradise" is commonly used to denote "rakuen", in this case "pleasure garden" or “adult playground” may be a more apt translation. For Gojo was once (or twice) a vibrant entertainment district where the geisha business thrived, and with it the architecture, arts and crafts that flourished alongside. Where there are guesthouses, restaurants and ateliers in Kyo-machiya (京町屋) buildings today, in centuries past they were the lodging houses and entertainment venues of geishas and their entourage.
Sanyu-ro, a former ochaya where geikos entertained guests with music, dance and conversation. It was torn down in October 2021.
In Kyoto, geishas (芸者) are called geikos (芸子) or maikos(舞妓), the apprentices. An okiya (置屋) is the lodging house in which these ladies live, or are affiliated with. An ochaya (お茶屋) is not really a tea house despite its name, but is a lavish banqueting venue where geikos entertain guests usually introduced by trusted customers. Kaburenjō (歌舞練場) is a large, formal dance hall where geikos and maikos practise their performing arts. At least once a year it holds public performances that attract crowds from far and away.
Gojo Kaikan, a 3-storey wood structure built in 1917 of the Taisho era, was a "kaburenjō" dance hall. Disused for years, will it find a new lease of life?
Main hall for rehearsals and annual public performances in what was once known as the Gojo Kaikan Kaburenjō. Photo from SMILE LOG.
The history of Gojo has much to do with the Takase river, which is actually a canal dug over 400 years ago for transporting rice and timber into Kyoto. With Kamo River on one side serving as the north-side thoroughfare for merchants and temple pilgrims, and the new canal on the other shifting cargo, shipping, trade and warehousing boomed, as did service industries including entertainment.
Takase canal dug 400 years ago for transporting cargoes into Kyoto
Source: Kyo no Machikado
Takase river today, with boat and goods re-enacting canal trade of a bygone era.
A number of entertainment districts sprung up in Kyoto, and Gojo with its proximity to the canal trade provided greater access to commoners. Incidentally it was in the Gojo vicinity that nobleman Minimoto-no-Toru lived, during the Heian period, in his grand garden residence called Kawarano-In. His life and homes are believed to have been models for the Tale of Genji. In the 1,000-year-old novel, we find a world of temporal pleasures not unlike those embraced by subsequent generations seeking respite from the hardships of life.
Cover of book by John Carpenter and Melissa McCormick published by Metropolitan Museum of Art. One of numerous books chronicling the history, art and interpretations spawned by the historical novel.
Towards the end of the Edo period in the 1800s, Gojo and surrounding areas became one of Kyoto's largest red light districts, with construction peaking in the Taisho period (1912-1926). Many of the former ochaya buildings with their enigmatic “karahafu” curved gables date from this period.
This curved gable, called karahafu, is a characteristic feature in architecture of the yukaku or entertainment areas. Its origins have never been ascertained, whether in Japan or in China.
Apart from geisha entertainment, there were other forms of adult amusements such as gambling with playing cards. It was here that Nintendo established itself as a playing card maker in 1889, invented Pokemon and eventually mesmerized the world with Mario and Luigi.
Yamauchi Nintendo had its headquarters in this location.
Nintendo HQ has been transformed into a splendid hotel called Marufukuro.
As late as the 1960s, there were 250 geikos working in Gojo Rakuen, with 20 okyiya geisha lodgings and 200 ochaya tea houses offering strictly song-and-dance entertainment. Patrons ranged from celebrities and sports stars to politicians, local bigwigs, and foreign visitors.
With the passage of time, the entertainment business declined despite, or because of efforts to innovate and "Westernize". Traditions faded with the kimonos, and demand for geiko performances fell dramatically. In a bid to give the district a new lease of life, the name Gojo Rakuen was dropped, so that now this former historical outpost is known as the Old Gojo Rakuen. New opportunities started cropping up for small independent businesses and newcomers looking for indie neighborhoods.
Today only about 15 ochaya and 4 okiya buildings remain as historical relics. Some have been turned into lodgings, restaurants and ateliers. Others, including the magnificent kaburenjo dance hall, are under review for possible renovation. With residents and authorities alike wanting to preserve architectural heritage and inject new life into the naturally endowed neighborhood, Gojo Rakuen is on course to re-claiming its former glory as an authentic crossroads for cultural, entrepreneurial and leisure activities, as well as a youthful and lively area in which to live and work.
Once an ochaya, now a guesthouse.